We are very excited to launch our new studio service - the CAP Matrix after many months of designing, building, testing, and re-testing in collaboration with Kenton Wickersham of Lyons Edge Handmade Hangboards.
Did you know that our brains organize sensory input from our 5 dominant sensory branches; vision, auditory, smell, taste, and touch? The sense of touch is perceived by a part of your brain known as the somatosensory cortex, which is basically our brain's roadmap for our body.
Climbing is largely tactile in nature and our fingertips act as secondary brains, computing information even prior to reaching our brain. For cognitive health, the wider and more varied, complex, and challenging the stimulus or "blind puzzles" are, the better the training effect.
We have developed three unique CAP Matrix Programs 4:
- Climbers – unique training exercises designed that enable you to reach the next dimension in your climbing.
- Athletic Tune Ups – assessing your injuries and potential limitations to improve your recovery and prevent injuries.
CAP Matrix 4 Climbers - The Next Dimension in Climbing
What if we told you we could unlock a new dimension in your climbing ability through enhanced brain communication and strength training not otherwise possible? Of course, you would want to know how that is possible.
CAP looks through an entirely different lens using our unique assessment tools to analyze your neurocognitive weaknesses and fundamental climbing mechanics that, combined, impact your overall peak performance capabilities.
CAP Matrix Assessment
We assess your ability to perform the following fundamental climbing movements on the CAP Matrix:
- maximal functional range/reach
- difficulty in the execution of technique
- execution of technique from positions of increased difficulty
Tactile Sensorimotor Test Assessment
Climbing is largely tactile in nature and your fingertips act as secondary brains, computing information even prior to reaching your brain. Small impairments can limit you from reaching your full climbing potential. Our tactile, sensorimotor testing provides insight into your cognitive communication and any impairments that may limit your full climbing potential in the following areas:
- tactile sensitivity
- concentration endurance
- ability to learn new physical skills
- creative ability to select optimal routes
- climbing “senses” and “reflexes”
- capability for dynamic motion
- sensory perception
**enhanced sensory perception and better focus reduces the risk of accidents**
CAP Matrix Training
We use the CAP Matrix to isolate limitations in your climbing technique and implement trajectory specific resistance to perform loaded repetitions targeting your limitation (s). Combined with our advanced neural training techniques we can dramatically improve your climbing technique, strength, and range of motion.
Sensorimotor testing identifies important metrics that reflect utilization of your “tactile brain” – Speed, Accuracy, Timing Perception, Plasticity, Connectivity, Focus, Fatigue, Temporal Order Judgment.
Low results on certain metrics may point to deficiencies in key neurotransmitters. Optimizing brain health with CAP Naturopathic services can help balance brain chemistry, improving many aspects of health, performance and cognition.
Some Important Neurotransmitters and Their Function
Acetylcholine – quick thinking – humour – memory
Acetylcholine is an “ON” switch in the brain that is critical for making sense of your environment quickly. It is related to muscle contraction force and the brain’s ability to assess, anticipate, and react quickly.
GABA – focus
GABA is the brain’s “OFF” switch. Low GABA levels can lead to inconsistency in performance, restlessness, anxiety, poor sleep and depression.
Dopamine – motivation – drive – reward
Dopamine is an “ON” switch in the brain correlated to the chase instinct, focus and the reward system that is very important to all learning.
CAP Matrix 4 Athletic Tune Ups
There is no better way to assess an injury, get you ready to climb again, or tune up to prepare for optimizing your ascent than to see you in action. For our local climbing community, the CAP Matrix offers our therapists and patients a highly specific and objective tool to assess your needs.
Whether the injury is on the fingers, wrist, elbow, shoulders or the neck, we have our unique wall to assess where in your current movement capacity you may be lacking. Looking to the lower body and seeing your movement on the wall, we can also assess how much hip, knee, ankle and toe mobility you have and can exert to reach that challenging hold to reach your climbing goals.